Cruiser Maintenance

The first thing to consider is locating a practical location to mount the plug. It takes room, and consideration should be given to protecting the plug as well as aesthetic considerations. It's not going to look like a stock Marauder any more, but it doesn't need to look "ugly" either. Having a pair of large brackets for the windshield, my choice was to mount the plug on the large flat outside surface of the left bracket. I removed the windshield during installation.

Looking inside of the headlight housing, the wiring enters from the bottom center of the housing. There's plenty of room to route the two new wires for the 12VDC plug into the housing along with the factory wiring. Be careful to route the wiring away from the area required for the back of the headlight. There's plenty of room in there, but everything needs to be in its place to avoid pinching or chafing of a wire.

On the 1998 Marauder, there is a spare circuit consisting of two wires (a brown wire and a black/white wire) and outfitted with a connector, present in the headlight housing. This circuit is part of the taillight circuit, the key must be on to activate it, and it is protected by the 10amp taillight circuit fuse. I chose to tap into the circuit instead of using or replacing the existing connector. The white and gray wires are from the new 12VDC plug.

I installed an additional spade-type fuseholder in-line on the ground wire (black/white) to provide added protection. Although the photo shows a 10amp fuse (the smallest fuse available when the photo was taken), the fuse size should be something less than 7 amps to protect the rather small spare circuit wiring, and also coordinate better with the 10amp taillight fuse. I used an extra long piece of electrical tape to help hold the fuseholder in position.

The extra long piece of tape is there if needed for any electrical short experienced anywhere on the bike later on. The tape can be removed for use elsewhere during an emergency repair.

With the new 12VDC Accessory Plug installation and testing complete, I replaced the windshield on the mounting brackets. Now all that remains is to add a short piece of wiring Loom to cover and protect the exposed wiring.

A couple of small black wire-ties were used to make sure that the wire Loom remains firmly in place on the wires and plug. I positioned the Loom with the split opening facing downward to allow water to drain from it. The way that the Loom and wiring is routed lower than the plug and headlight housing will create a natural "drip loop" to keep water out.

Do whatever you need to do to raise the front wheel off of the ground and stabilize the bike. Using ratchet tie-down straps each way from the rear shock mounts could be an alternate stabilizing method when a wheel clamp is not available.

Loosen the axle pinch bolt, and then loosen the front axle. It's a normal right-hand thread bolt. Slide the axle out of the wheel, being careful to catch the spacer on the disk side. Remove the speedometer gearbox from the wheel (not attached, just held in with the grease).

To get the caliper free of the disk, remove the brake disk from the front wheel while the wheel is still standing between the forks. DO NOT OPERATE THE FRONT BRAKE WHILE DISMOUNTING THE FRONT WHEEL. Remove the valve core to deflate the tire.

The most difficult part of the procedure may be "breaking" the bead of the tire loose from the wheel. I used a small bench vise to squeeze the tire. TIP: Apply generous pressure to the tire with the vise, and then take a break for a while to allow the tire time to yield to the pressure. Don't get in a hurry. One side of the tire will normally pop loose. Use tire tools or screwdrivers to remove the one side from the wheel, and then repeat the procedure with the vise to "break" the other bead.

With the old tire removed, apply dish washing liquid to the first bead of the tire to be installed. Position the wheel and new tire in preparation for mounting the new tire whereas the forward rotation of the tire when mounted will match the rotation arrow embossed on the tire. Double-check what the rotation will be when completed. Mount the first side of the tire on the wheel. Triple-check what the rotation will be when completed. Mount the second side of the tire.

Replace the valve core and apply air to the tire & wheel assembly through the air valve. If the tire beads do not seal to the wheel to accept air, use a tie-down strap placed around the center of the tire to apply squeezing pressure from the road surface of the tire, toward the center of the wheel. The squeezing pressure will help force the beads toward the outside of the wheel. When the beads first seal, stop applying air and remove the tie-down strap. Finish applying air.

Place the new tire and wheel back into the front fork and reverse the disassembly procedures, beginning with the installation of the brake disk. Place the speedometer gearbox back into position in the wheel. Insert the front axle bolt through the fork, add the spacer, align the wheel and carefully slide the axle through to the other fork. The speedometer gearbox stopper lug should be to the rear of the fork lug. Screw the axle bolt back into the second fork. Mount the brake caliper.

Spin the wheel to make sure there is no binding or obvious problems. Clean the front wheel.

Place the front wheel back on the ground with the weight of the bike back on the front wheel. Press the front forks up & down 4 or 5 times, then tighten the front axle pinch bolt.

Tire replacement is complete. CD

We will actually be doing two separate operations in this series, sprocket & chain replacement and rear tire replacement.

Support the bike with the rear tire just off of the ground. Use blocks under the rear of the frame to allow the swingarm to hang free. We'll want to be able to remove the swingarm if worn bearings are found.

Remove the left side Swingarm Pivot Cover and the Engine Sprocket Cover. Flatten the washer and remove the Engine Sprocket Nut. Don't remove the sprocket just yet.

Remove the Chain Guard and grind or file the ends off of both pins for the chain link you're going to break.

Use a chain breaker tool (MotionPro 08-0001 shown) to break the chain. Remove the rear axle cotter pin and nut, and back the chain tensioners off completely. Remove the broken link and thread the chain off of the sprockets and out of the swingarm.

Remove the rear axle bolt, being careful to support the rear brake assembly until it can be separated from the wheel. The axle spacer and both chain adjusters will be free once the axle passes by them on the way out. Tip the top of the wheel assembly to the right side of the wheel well and the bottom toward the left to remove it. Remove the rear brake assembly (sets loose in wheel) when able to do so.

Support the rear sprocket mounting drum (sets loose in the wheel) while handling the wheel. Remove the rear sprocket mounting nuts and remove the rear sprocket.

Install the new sprocket and torque the rear sprocket nuts to 38 ft-lb. Remove the rear sprocket mounting drum from the wheel assembly and remove the drum retainer if it doesn't come out with the drum (sets loose in wheel, held in by grease). This would be the time to check the swingarm bearings for unusual wear.

The next step will be replacing the rear tire.

Remove the valve core and deflate the tire. Use a bead breaker tool if available, or improvise a method to break both beads of the tire away from the rim. The bead can be broken on narrow tires in a small bench vise, but not the wider rear tire. We used a pickup front tire to drive up on a small block of wood and then gently put pressure on the sidewall of our deflated tire. Be very careful to avoid damage to the wheel or to the vehicle tire sidewall.

With both sidewalls broke loose, begin removing one side of the tire from the wheel with tire spoons, large screwdrivers, or both. Liquid dish soap can be applied to the bead for lubrication. Gently work the bead up and over the outer surface of the wheel rim, being careful not to damage the rim. Remove the other side of the tire the same way.

Check the rotation arrow on the new tire and install it on the wheel in the same way.

If the new tire has a small painted dot on the sidewall, position the tire with the paint dot closest to the valve stem. Insert the valve core and apply air pressure to the stem. If a sidewall seal can not be obtained, use a tie-down strap to apply squeezing pressure to the center of the tire tread, forcing the beads out against the wheel rims. Apply air pressure to the stem until the tire is partially inflated. Remove the strap and finish inflating the tire.

Remove any dirt or debris from the wheel bearing surfaces in the wheel and in the sprocket mounting drum with a shop towel or rag. Check the rear sprocket mounting drum bearing condition and add grease if needed. Insert the drum retainer into the sprocket mounting drum and remove any excess grease. Insert the sprocket mounting drum into the wheel assembly.

The next step is to install the rear wheel.

Check the rear brake shoes for damage or excessive wear and replace if needed. With the rear brake assembly still out, begin inserting the wheel assembly back into the wheel well and swingarm area. Insert the rear brake assembly into the wheel just prior to the hub entering into the swingarm.

Insert the rear axle bolt into the swingarm by going through the tensioners, wheel and spacer.

Thread the new chain over the rear sprocket, through the swingarm, and over the new front sprocket.

Insert the chain connecting link in the chain from the back side. Make sure all of the O-rings are in place. Set the outer connecting plate onto the connecting link.

Use a chain press tool (MotionPro 08-0070 shown) to press the connecting plate into place. Install the Spring Clip with the closed end toward the direction of the chain rotation.

Install the engine sprocket nut and torque to 83 ft-lbs. Bend the washer up to lock the nut.

Install the rear axle nut (just snug) and apply tension to the chain equally with both chain tensioners until chain is adjusted properly (about 1" of slack) and tighten the axle nut and both chain adjuster lock nuts. Torque the axle nut to 47 ft-lbs and insert the cotter key.

Replace all shields and covers. Test operate and adjust the rear brake by turning the rear brake adjuster nut.

The springs in the Cam Chain Tensioners can become weakened over a period of time. New tensioners should be installed when this occurs, but a "Rebuild" of the existing tensioners can be done while waiting for new parts. Consult your shop manual for the proper way to remove and install the tensioners. These photos show the rear cylinder tensioner.

The Cam Chain Tensioner internal parts removed, with the tension spring (not visible) still inside of the tensioner housing.

Oil in the tensioner may prevent the tension spring from sliding out of the tensioner. The spring is not attached to the tensioner internally, and can be gently removed from the tensioner with a set of needle-nose pliers.

The spring being removed from the tensioner for inspection. If the spring is not damaged, reassemble the tensioner internal parts, using a small screwdriver to wind the spring one full turn with the push rod screw before inserting the screw into the push rod. This will cause slightly more tension on the spring, exerting more tension on the cam chain. Reinstall the tensioner as described in your manual.

DISCLAIMER: ALL PHOTOS AND TEXT ARE ONLY SHOWING HOW THE PROCEDURE WAS DONE BY US, AND DOES NOT NECESSARILY REPRESENT THE BEST, PROPER, SAFEST, OR ONLY WAY TO DO SO. NO RESPONSIBILITY FOR LOSS, DAMAGE OR INJURY IS ASSUMED BY US IN ANY WAY. FOLLOW THESE EXAMPLES AT YOUR OWN RISK.

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