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FT-750-07.JPG (67601 bytes)

Cruiser Maintenance, Repairs, & Upgrades

Page Five

2003 Kawasaki Vulcan 750 Front & Rear Tire Replacement

RT-750-01.JPG (66768 bytes) RT-750-02.JPG (79344 bytes) RT-750-03.JPG (69682 bytes) RT-750-04.JPG (79553 bytes) REAR: At 11,000 miles the Bridgestone tires still have plenty of life left in them, but I need them for a 1995 Vulcan that has worn-out tires on it. I want to get a new set of Avon tires on this bike for the season. I elevated the rear of the bike with a small jack while the front was tied down. The rear wheel removal was covered previously during  Final Drive Removal. To break the beads loose, a motorcycle Tire Bead Breaker #4000 from a company called White Horse Press was used, but only one bead broke loose.

Photos show: Photo of tire wear, elevating rear of bike, Tire Bead Breaker applied to tire.

 

RT-750-05.JPG (61453 bytes) RT-750-06.JPG (60603 bytes) To get the second bead broken loose, I laid the wheel on a piece of scrap plywood and used 2X4 lumber to get the leverage needed to press the second bead off of the wheel. (Note: Photos show a similar tire and wheel off of another Vulcan 750.)

Photos show: Pressing a second bead off of a wheel.

 

RT-750-07.JPG (77533 bytes) RT-750-08.JPG (71106 bytes) RT-750-09.JPG (81295 bytes) Removing the old tire and installing the new tire on the wheel will be covered in the front tire replacement below. To "rough balance" the tire, the wheel and axle was elevated just enough to spin the tire multiple times to identify any "heavy side". The gearbox will not allow the tire to rotate freely, so the wheel must be supported elsewhere. Rough balancing will be covered more in the front tire replacement below. (Note: Photos show a similar tire and wheel off of another Vulcan 750.)

Photos show: Tire inflation, and rough balancing a rear tire.

 

RT-750-10.JPG (69120 bytes) RT-750-11.JPG (68349 bytes) RT-750-12.JPG (65455 bytes) RT-750-13.JPG (70865 bytes) After rough balancing the new tire, the wheel assembly is mounted back on the bike. Note that instead of removing the Jardine mufflers, I had loosened the header bolts on both pipes and then removed the muffler hanger bolts to allow the mufflers to sag down low enough to R&R the rear axle.

Photos show: Rear wheel being mounted back on the bike.

 

FT-750-01.JPG (72836 bytes) FT-750-02.JPG (71579 bytes) FT-750-03.JPG (77954 bytes) FT-750-04.JPG (67385 bytes) FRONT: After repositioning the bike on the lift, the front tire is elevated for removal. To break the beads on the narrower front tire, a common bench vise is used.

Photos show: Elevating the front of the bike, removing the front wheel assembly, two shots of breaking the beads loose with a bench vise.

 

FT-750-05.JPG (72906 bytes) FT-750-06.JPG (66375 bytes) FT-750-07.JPG (67601 bytes) FT-750-08.JPG (65401 bytes) With both beads broken loose, the old tire was removed one side at a time with tire irons. The tire iron of choice is an EMGO (EMG-84-27915) 15" TIRE LEVER that I found in a bike shop in Dell City, OK. This tire lever makes motorcycle tire removal and installation as easy as it gets with hand tools.

Photos show: Three shots of  first side of tire removal, completed tire removal.

 

FT-750-09.JPG (72565 bytes) FT-750-10.JPG (65399 bytes) FT-750-11.JPG (67065 bytes) FT-750-12.JPG (67471 bytes) After cleaning the wheel to get rid of any excess lubricant from previous mountings, we used a small amount of dishwashing detergent to coat both beads of the new tire with a thin layer of soap. Again, the EMGO (EMG-84-27915) 15" TIRE LEVER is used to mount the new tire onto the wheel. It's the best tire tool that we've found thus far.

Photos show: Cleaning wheel, two shots of mounting the first bead, mounting the second bead.

 

FT-750-13.JPG (71869 bytes) FT-750-14.JPG (82512 bytes) FT-750-15.JPG (75165 bytes) FT-750-16.JPG (62086 bytes) We inflated the front tire to the recommended pressure of 28 lbs. Before we mount the wheel assembly back onto the bike, we "rough balance" the tire by mounting the assembly onto the axle without the spacer and speedometer gearbox in place, and with the front disc brake calipers tied back away from the tire. The tire is spun and allowed to come to a stop several times to find a "heavy" side of the tire. Stick-on tire weights are placed on the light side of the tire and held in place with masking tape until the right amount of weight is positioned in the proper place.

Photos show: Inflating tire, two shots of spinning tire,mounting speedometer gearbox.

 

FT-750-19.JPG (74401 bytes) FT-750-20.JPG (68211 bytes) On this particular installation, the existing wheel weight did not need to be moved nor the weight increased. Further balancing should be performed at a motorcycle shop as needed. After "rough balancing" the tire, the wheel assembly is mounted properly on the bike.

Photos show: Two shots of mounting the calipers.

 

DISCLAIMER: ALL PHOTOS AND TEXT ARE ONLY SHOWING HOW THE PROCEDURE WAS DONE BY US, AND DOES NOT NECESSARILY REPRESENT THE BEST, PROPER, SAFEST, OR ONLY WAY TO DO SO. NO RESPONSIBILITY FOR LOSS, DAMAGE OR INJURY IS ASSUMED BY US IN ANY WAY. FOLLOW THESE EXAMPLES AT YOUR OWN RISK.

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Created by CD Thayer - August 1998